The fragrant scent of sizzling spices pervades the real life Theatre kitchen where a chef stands at a stove, surrounded by vegetables, herbs, olive oil, pots and pans.
‘ Herbs. Yes. I’m chopping. Surprised? …more Iranian women are educated to university level than men, we don’t cook. We work. Some men encourage it, others can’t bear it. Like him. That’s why I left him.’
Briskly chopping red onions, she shares brief anecdotes about her previous life in Iran before leaving for a new start in London, a drama inspired by a true story. Born in Iran in 1977 Atoosa Sepehr was a high flyer graduating from Azad University, studied for an MBA and relocated to London in 2007, but never forgot the traditional cuisine. Her cookery book ‘From a Persian Kitchen’ is a colourful Iranian journey through illustrated authentic recipes one of which is prepared and cooked on stage.
Ash E Reshteh is a thick Persian broth with fresh herbs, spices, garlic, lentils, beans and noodles, a beloved dish served during Norooz (New Year) celebrations. Isabella Nefar (Atoosa), is like an artist - her wooden spoon like a brush, the spices, her palette of paints - slowly crafting her culinary masterpiece with each magical exotic ingredient:
‘Every time I’ve tried to make this dish there’s been something missing. But now I think I know what it is. Today is the day. I’ll get this recipe right. I have to. For them.’
The previous generation of women used to cook two meals a day for their family. It was their job, ‘I do not want a husband,’ she announces emphatically. We gradually visualise the jigsaw pieces of her previous fractured life overshadowed by the dominating control of her partner leading to a nerve wracking escape to London, but is she truly safe and free?
Finding an old battered copy of Emily Bronte’s ‘Wuthering Heights,’ this was her favourite novel as a child, captivated by the romantic tale of obsessive love. Heathcliff’s longing for Catherine is doomed because he can never have her but can also never let go. He begs, “Be with me always .. do not leave me in this abyss where I cannot find you’.
Echoes of her own turbulent relationship linger in her mind, her tearful eyes are perhaps not from the onion but emotional heartache. Cooking is her release of tension, smiling happily as she picks threads of saffron, the most expensive spice more valuable than gold. Lentils are rinsed with a flowing stream of water, as she explains that Turmeric is an anti-inflammatory a painkiller, a natural healer of her wounds. Isabella Nefar is a delightfully charismatic MasterChef, patiently describing with infectious enthusiasm every essential step of the recipe, the action directed with gentle pace to ensure the cookery demonstration is on time.
With a final sprinkle of parsley, salt and a secret herb, the steaming pot of Ash E Reshteh is ready as the smell and taste recalls poignant memories of her beloved mother, aunt, grandmother and the food of her homeland. For Iranians, the way the noodles twist together represents the crossroads along the paths of life and symbolise good fortune when embarking on a journey. Now she can share her culture with a new community of friends.
‘I cook Persian in my English kitchen. (She tastes it). Yes. That’s right. I did it. In time.
They should be here any minute.’
Showtimes:
1 – 25 August, 2024. Not Mondays. Times differ each day.
Ticket Prices: £5 - £22.50. (concessions available).
Age: 14+
Traverse Theatre 1 Aug - 25 August - https://www.traverse.co.uk/whats-on/event/my-english-persian-kitchen-festival-24
Soho Theatre 16 Sept – 5 October - https://sohotheatre.com/events/my-english-persian-kitchen-3/