There was much to see as we visited these two historic churches in Edinburgh’s city centre.
The attendees were split into two groups, so that both churches could be covered by each cohort in the 90min slot. Mine began in St Cuthbert’s (the oldest ecclesiastical site in Edinburgh), and a particular highlight was being able to see the Memorial Chapel with its splendid golden mosaic, together with the stained-glass crucifixion scene. Notably, this was also where Agatha Christie’s second marriage took place.
Within the church itself, it was great to see the Tiffany stained-glass window, with its vibrant colours (there are only 5 such Tiffany windows in UK churches), here depicting David going out to meet Goliath. Other notable features were the painted murals and alabaster construction in the sanctuary – replicating Michaelangelo’s depiction of the Last Supper.
Outside the church, we were able to see the watchtower erected to guard against the body-snatchers. Inside, a number of the items introduced into the church were initially controversial, being somewhat decorative in nature at a time when simplicity was emphasised – the marble font and ornate pulpit being two such examples.
Like St Cuthbert’s, St John’s has also seen various incarnations in its time, though in the latter case the building was consecrated only in 1818. Designed in the old Gothick style, it is constructed in the English perpendicular tradition, somewhat setting it apart from other nearby churches. The subsequent influence of the Oxford Movement, in the latter part of the 19th century, clearly made its impact, with the addition of the apse and the consequent greater focus on the altar. Most of the bright and colourful windows are by Ballantine.
While the tour was certainly interesting, it never really got beyond what was already readily available in the information leaflets at the back of each of the churches. There were gaps in the guides’ knowledge – and this was especially awkward when being asked about the scenes depicted in the windows, despite the fact that often the verse and reference were incorporated into the design. An unfortunate altercation between a congregant and the guide towards the end of the tour (complaining about the level of noise) left one feeling this could have been improved by better preparation and groundwork.
Guided Church Tour, Monday 12th August, St Cuthbert’s & St John’s: Lothian Road / Princes Street