There’s nothing more welcoming than a traditional country Inn, such as the Horseshoe in Eddleston village on the old Stagecoach road (A703) from Edinburgh to Peebles in the Scottish Borders.
Originally a Blacksmith’s shop, the Horseshoe Inn’s reputation goes back several years when French Chef Patrick Bardoulet and his wife Vivienne took over to run a Bistro and an elegant Dining room, soon named AA Restaurant of the Year for Scotland 2007-08.
It’s all change for 2013. The new Head Chef, Alastair Craig has arrived from the Michelin-starred Montagu Arms in Hampshire, while the General Manager, Mark Slaney has experience working at two leading country house hotels in Scotland, Isle of Eriska and Boath House.
The aim, it seems, is to develop the Horseshoe further and establish an upmarket, fine dining Destination Restaurant with Rooms: it currently holds two AA rosettes. An ideal location for Peeblesshire/Borders' residents and just 20 miles south of Edinburgh it’s an easy drive. The 62 bus (Melrose to Edinburgh) conveniently stops right outside the Inn.
We were warmly greeted on arrival by the restaurant manager (wearing a shiny grey city suit and tie); there is no strict dress code but the Inn’s new style is smart-casual rather than gastro- pub.
After recent refurbishment, the former Bistro is now a sumptuously furnished Lounge Bar with cream brocade sofas, leather Chesterfields and wood burning stove, where diners can relax over an apertif or with a brandy/dram digestif, before and after dinner. The bar offers a good wine list, champagne, single Malts, Scottish Gins and choice of local real ales including from the Traquair House brewery.
My dining partner Geoff and I sipped a glass of crisp Sancerre and a flute of Delamotte NV champagne respectively, served with a few canapés while we studied the menu.
The Restaurant has an intimate, romantic setting with antique wood tables, high backed chairs (crimson stripes and sage green check), crisp white linen, gold walls, stained glass windows and claret red carpet.
The modern Scottish cuisine emphasises organic meat and game from Border Farms, Scottish seafood, Ettrick Valley smoked salmon and fresh market garden produce with herbs and vegetables from the kitchen garden.
From the A La Carte dinner menu I selected Hand-dived Scallops, delicately grilled to preserve their juicy succulence, drizzled with a light lemon & hazelnut butter. The fat shellfish discs sat on a large portion of undercooked, very crunchy green beans. Inedible!. The usual accompaniment for scallops is a cauliflower or pea puree, the soft texture such a classic, perfectly matched partner.
Across the table, Geoff began with Pigs Trotter Croquette, the meat wrapped in a crisp potato coating which apparently rather overwhelmed it. Spinach or chard would have worked better. The advertised capers were missing, while the raisin puree was a great inspiration but would perhaps suit another dish. Overall an idea that didn't live up to its promise with unco-ordinated flavours.
Geoff's main course was Pork Fillet with belly pork confit, caramelised apples and pak choi: the fillet was superbly cooked, just pink enough in the centre and so tender you could practically have cut it with the side of a fork. The belly pork was also tender but not exactly a confit –more like strips of excellently cooked belly pork in a jus. Perhaps not really enough contrast between the two types of meat. The apples were nicely poached but there wasn't a hint of caramelisation, and the pak choi was fine but two small pieces were insufficient. Overall, deliciously savoury.
Meanwhile I was presented with a large platter of Grilled Hake, also cooked perfectly, flaking off the knife, crushed new potatoes and the rather fashionable addition of fragrant green samphire, all topped off with a creamy dollop of crab mayonnaise. This combination of flavours oozed with the salty taste of the sea and the quality of fresh ingredients shined through: a tasty seafood dish for summer.
While I sampled a few small portions of Farmhouse cheese served with oat biscuits, Geoff quickly demolished his dessert, Greek yoghurt Pannacotta with raspberries– the verdict: “Excellent idea and very delicious.”
With our meal we shared a bottle of House wine, a smooth and fruity French Cabernet Sauvignon. Friendly service throughout was at a leisurely pace to create a relaxing ambience.
The Horseshoe Inn now has a separate dining room (seating up to 14 guests), to cater for private parties, birthday and family celebrations.
Open for Lunch and Dinner from Wednesday to Sunday, take a trip to the Horseshoe Restaurant to experience a feast of good food soured locally around the Borders. Alternatively reserve one of the eight contemporary bedrooms in the Old Schoolhouse next door and turn a meal out into a mini- country break.