Chain restaurants trying to emulate the European way of eating always fall down with the nicety of complimentary bread for the table, where ‘encore du pain, s’il vous plait’ doesn’t mean an addition to the ‘addition’. Independent restaurants get it right.
At Blonde, with its pale wood tables and chairs and relaxed, unpretentious atmosphere, my party of five had a good choice of six dishes from each section of the set lunch menu (2 courses for £12.90, 3 courses for £14.90).
The starters were just the right size – enough to whet, but not too much to spoil your appetite. The Stornoway black pudding with red onion marmalade and rocket, puy lentil and toasted walnuts was just gorgeous and satisfying, setting the scene for the main event of beautifully cooked fillet of trout with a gently spicy tomato and sultana cous-cous served with jalapeno soured cream. A yummy and successful mixture!
My lunching chums who also had starters had a generous plate of mussels served with garlic, white wine, cream and lemon and a ‘toothsome’ plate of smoked mackerel and caper fishcakes with chilli jam. Everyone cleared their plates of their choices of marinated breast of chicken, tomato, green olive and coriander tagliatelle, confit leg of duck in red onion gravy with herb roasted potatoes and roast belly of pork, chorizo bubble and squeak with green peppercorn sauce.
From the tempting selection of puddings, warm orange and ginger pudding with Bailey’s custard and whipped cream was the choice of those indulging their sweet teeth. While the rest of us stuck to coffee, we could see other tables being served with the delights of poached pear and blackcurrant sorbet. Next time, I think we’ll succumb!
Blonde has a moderately priced wine list and also serves separately soups, salads and pasta dishes. A full dinner menu is available on their website.
Since its opening in 2000, I have had the pleasure of lunching at Blonde several times and have never been disappointed. It is the epitome of casual dining, offering good well cooked fresh food at good value with no flummery, just efficient, unobtrusive, friendly service in an atmosphere that’s comfortable and relaxed for all ages.